Instructions for Mounting Fred Stock Electronics Roof Lights:
Subtitle: Everything you ever wanted to know about toplights, and several things you still don’t care about!

 

Drilling a hole for wires, through the roof of the vehicle:

 

                    

 

Pull rubber weather strip away from door frame at top. Slide a protecting layer of metal or wood between headliner and tin roof. Measure carefully to assure you drill down into protected area, and don’t puncture headliner. Also tap with your knuckles on the roof itself before setting the location to avoid any reinforcing bars that are often imbedded like roll-bars in the overhead. Drill ahead or behind these. Consider the headliner. We use a piece of aluminum that was originally intended for use as a rug edge protection.  Center the hole so a tidy hole plug will look ok at sell time for the car.  You can use a half inch or better drill bit, and drill just enough of the hole to see through the revolving drill bit into the space. Then stop and use a tiny screw driver or dental-pick through the partially drilled hole to test if the protection board is in position. When it is, finish the hole. CAUTION: The metal edges of the roof structure, roll bars and devices used for mounting lights and instruments have exceptionally rough sharp edges. DON’T fish with your hands between the roof liner and roof.

 

      

 

 

Mount the front edge of the roof-light at least 14 inches from the top edge of the windshield. Further back is better. Mounting it closer can cause illumination of grit or defects in your glass at night, causing a dangerous reduction of driver’s vision. You can use a #32 drill to drill the holes into the roof for the long bolts that will hold the light in position. If you use a self tapping screw or drill-tip "tech screw" you will not need to pre-drill the point. Be sure the light sign is centered left to right, and the distance between the top edge of the windshield and the front edge of the top-light is equal on both sides. Use a #8 self tapping screw (or similar) at the mounting points to secure the light.

 

The light-bar should be centered within the area that the cover will enclose. The wiring should run directly into the car through a 3/8” hole using a rubber grommet and silicon seal (available from auto parts and most grocery stores.

 

     

 

With top-lights that screw down from the front-center and rear-center of the shell, do not screw the shell screws down so tightly that they crack or distort the shell itself. This stress can cause failure and cracking in severe heat and severe cold conditions.

 

With top-lights that use a welded bolt and nut to secure their shell on the left and right sides, snug the nut down over the frame carefully. If the frame appears to be too narrow or too wide for the shell, gently bend the light-bar metal work to stretch or shrink the width of the bolt centers. DO NOT stress the welds by trying to force the shell over the nuts. This can cause the welds to break, making the bolt loose and very difficult to tighten. It is best to secure only one end of the light bar, then check the cover shell on the base to be sure it was not bent during shipment. Make the bends mentioned below, then drill the second hole. If you have to remove a mounting screw after it is mounted to bend the light-bar frame, you can seal the original hole with silicon seal and then drill a new screw hole just nearby, to which to mount the bar.

 

Thank you for your purchase of your new top-light from Fred Stock Electronics and www.taxicabelectronics.com. We’re proud to serve you!  Call 760-345-4347 with any questions or comments. You can e-mail us at fred@TaxiCabElectronics.com .

 

               
      
      

 

 

Disclaimer:  Fred Stock Electronics, TaxiCabElectronics.com, its affiliate firms, websites and facilities and individual participants (we) hereby notify all users of these instruction packages (you) that we cannot be held responsible for damage of any kind to automobiles, vehicles, devices or materials as a result of these instructions. We have extensive experience using these methods and equipment, and have tested the methods we suggest in these instruction packages. The content of these packages represent our experiences, relayed to you as clearly and simply as possible, and they are intended solely as a method guide to be followed at your own risk. Fred Stock Electronics hereby disclaims all responsibility for your work, connection or modification of your vehicles. These instructions are intended to allow you to make reasonable decisions, take reasonable action and provide yourself with reasonable prevention of possible hazards as a result of your work. You are hereby notified that wiring can deteriorate, chafe, break or otherwise malfunction. You are hereby notified that all electronic devices, machines, modules and similar equipment are by their very nature subject to failure and reasonable caution must be applied to prevent dangerous or hazardous conditions from developing. This includes but is not limited to the use of fuses, circuit breakers, insulators such as grommets and split loom tubing, securing devices such as "tye-wraps" and electrical tape. In any decision, we advise you err on the side of caution and provide maximum protection for your wiring, devices and vehicles. You are free to call and discuss any concerns with us in advance of making any connections, changes or modifications in the course of your installation (Our telephone 760-345-4347). All work will ultimately be at your own risk. We further do not warrant the suitability of any product or service to your specific needs or desires. We make exceptional effort to assure your needs are met and your aspirations achieved, but we do not guarantee, warrant, promise or otherwise intend to assure you that such purchases and actions will bring you to complete satisfaction. Our services and products are offered for your use and application entirely at your own risk. We want you to return to our services in the future and we approach our business dealings with that in mind. Your confidence and your business are appreciated. THIS IS THE WIND SPEECH! Magnetic bases are available on MOST of our toplights. Fred Stock Electronics and www.TaxiCabElectronics.com, and our other websites, employees and source companies, collectively "We" and "Us" herein, disclaim any and all damage or loss to your company and its equipment or personnel or clients due to use of magnetic based toplights, advertising carriers, antennas or other equipment. WE CAUTION YOU that magnetic lights can slide and slip when set on a portion of the roof which is not perfectly flat, or when placed with a sideways motion. They can slip due to wind "pressure" on them, again causing scratches. This can scratch the finish of your vehicle. WE CAUTION YOU that they can be blown off the top of your vehicle. Do the math! If you are traveling 58 MPH and your vehicle is passed by a truck going the other way at 74 MPH you have a 132 MPH wind gust to deal with. And the rooster tail wind at the back hits you a second time! Your toplight - especially a large format light with a lot of "face" - can be destroyed in a fraction of a second when it hits the asphalt at 50 MPH. It can cause serious damage and/or injury in the same scenario. We recommend using the screwbase lights, permanently attached to your vehicle whenever possible. (Another of our favorite alternatives is, if you insist upon Magnetic Bases, buy several copies of your toplight so you have spares! Works for me!!) Consider a Screw-based sign! They cost less too!  We hereby disclaim any responsibility for your use of these products. Our experience had taught us that these magnetic lights are often "pitched" onto the roof, or slid off when removing them. The air currents to which they are subjected can and do slide them around, and though we coat them with Mylar tape, the mere presence of dust in the air can cause scratching when they move about. We do not warrant these devices in any way for damage to your vehicle. By purchasing and using these magnetic bases from Fred Stock Electronics and its websites, you release Us from any and all claims for damage, injury or death.  We also have a nice note from K. Bazin in Moncton, New Brunswick in Canada who qualifies this paragraph as follows: "I own a couple of cabs ... and have used magnets for years and have never lost a roof sign. The signs are large and I use 4 of the 3"x3" square magnets which I have tested... at 150 mph on an 03 Crown Vic Interceptor. There was no movement of the sign whatsoever, but I have seen guys use the 2.5" round magnets and lose signs at 70 MPH." Thanks KB! ( http://www.aircab.nb.ca )  We use powerful 3" Round magnets (or multiple grip channel magnets in some models.)  Both exponentially more sturdy than the 2.5' variety and have lost few of these to the gusts. But some have gone! And I still stand by my cautions! You decide! Our disclaimers must stand, and your use of these items will always be at your sole risk.  fhs

 

 

YOUR BUSINESS IS APPRECIATED, AND OUR CLIENTS ARE OUR BEST ADVERTISMENT.
TELL SOMEBODY ABOUT US! www.TaxiCabElectronics.com Thanks!

 



 

Note: In this diagram I called for “relay control lead from meter” – If there is no meter, control the relay through a toggle switch connected to switched accessory power. Our FS1 toplight has a center top panel called “VACANT” usually, and connected to 87a. The outer tab #87 is used for “HIRED” lights, anything that wants to be on when the meter or cab is hired.  Connect accessory power to pin #30 so it lights the lights while the key is on, but goes dead when you shut off the car. Blessings, -Fred

 

 

Stainless Steel Lightbar Models

 

 

The predrilled hole is for the mounting screws at each end of the lightbar.

 

 

 

Light bars are made from heavy steel banding and formed to allow installation of the bar, then application of the toplight shells without external mounting screws. The only metal exposed to the elements is the pair of spot-welded bolts at either end of the light. We suggest a small coating of lacquer (clear nail polish works well) or even a coat of Vaseline in colder areas to protect against moisture.

 

For lights with elevated sockets such as our FS1, the trick is to align the light stalks with the holes inside the plastic shell before mounting the cover shell to the lightbar. First make sure all the stalks are vertical, bending them slightly if they have been bent during shipment. Then sight across the light stalks to be sure they are in a straight line. Then hold the shell against the lightbar and be certain the stalks are aligned with the drilled openings inside the shell. The shell will then slip over the lamps and drop into position. Then secure the shell to the two upright bolts with an 11/32 spin-driver or wrench.

 

Magnetic Based Toplights

 

 

Most of our toplights are also available with magnetic bases, which means they can be set on the roof of your vehicle without screw holes, and lighted via a cigarette lighter plug and cable which is pulled over the rubber of the door, and plugged into your lighter socket or power outlet. This also means they are being held in place by magnetic flux and can be blown off the car in high winds. Scenario: Your car is traveling 70 miles per hour down the Jersey Turnpike, and the truck headed the other way is traveling 75 miles per hour. There is a 25 mile head wind today. Do the math! This means there could be an impact of up to 170 miles per hour on your toplight – hey! That’s a high wind – Category Four, I think the hurricane watchers call it. Think seriously about a screw based toplight instead. Please see "the wind speech" in the disclaimer portion of this webpage.

 

 

 

   

 

About Toplights with Metal Bases

 

Many of the toplights provided by TaxiCabElectronics.com and Fred Stock Electronics are made with aluminum bases and a metal ring around the perimeter of

their base. These have a large hole(s) in the metal floor through which to access the light bulbs and wiring. They also have a pair of screw holes in the ends through which your mounting screws can be attached. The light will sit properly on the flat portion of a roof. If you attempt to place the light on the

 

curved portion of a roof, the ends of the light may not fit, leaving a space between the roof and the bottom of the light. You can solve that problem by applying ordinary “weather stripping’ – a foam tape available at hardware chain stores, and used to seal cracks around doors. This has a gummed surface which can be applied directly to the bottom of the metal ring, creating a weather-seal border, and allowing the light to fit properly on the curved roofline. The foam will crush to nearly nothing at the center, and fill the gap at the ends of the shell.

The lamps used in this style toplight are Number 93 or 1156 in the base, and Number 89 or 67 in the markers at the top. To change the upper lamp, remove the toplight from the vehicle, turn it over, and reach into the light. Remove one of the large lamps from the base, then

     

grasp the socket for the upper lamps. Pull it gently out of the hole, and change the lamp, then simply snap it back into place. There is never a need to remove the floor or the metal collar from the toplight.
Fred Stock Electronics PO Box 12492 Palm Desert, CA 92255-2492